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Ok, your frame is an IS mount for disc brakes. (There is International Standard - holes inline with hub, and post mount, holes at right angles to hub). Depends what fork you have as to what mount is up front. Don't panic though, you can get adaptors to switch between types. Wheels - are they disc compatible? Do they have a flange on the left side with 6 holes, or a splined section? If not, you'll need to buy new wheels. Choices for current wheels are sell on, or keep if you have another bike to fit them to. Don't strip and rebuild on to a new hub, it's not recommended to rebuild with used spokes or rims - they don't build as well once tensioned once already. Disc brakes. This comes down to price and brand preferences. Do get hydraulic discs, cable discs are no better than your V brakes and offer little benefit. Don't get drawn into bigger is better, especially on the rear wheel. 160mm rear is sufficient for anything other than a DH rig. Anyone saying different needs to learn to control their front and rear braking control. It depends on how hard you ride and how fast you go for the front, coupled with size of descents. Long descents with lots of braking will benefit from a bigger disc, not just for power, but for heat dissipation. For lower weight, keep them small. What do I run? I have Formula Oro Puro's on my summer full suss and Hope M4, Mono Mini combo on my winter hardtail. Both work superbly, the Formulas have greater all out stopping power and are lighter, but cost much more. The Hopes are ultra dependable and better wet weather stoppers for my personal trail conditions. Fitting is pretty straightforward. The hydraulic system is fully sealed, so if you can get the right cable length, or live with it marginally long, you need do nothing other than fit them on. If cables need trimming, best to let your local shop cut and bleed brakes. If you get discs with a twin clamp lever and have a similar fitting V-brake lever, you won't even need to remove your grips. Cable routing is bike dependant, mine slot into guides on one bike and zip tie to guides on the other, neither required any bike shop input.